Fashion Week is over, summer is officially over on the 22nd and I’m running out of reasons not to eat. Today I decided to go through a few menswear collections for fall/winter 2013-14 to keep me from going to the grocery store and pigging out in the aisles. I’ve noticed some brilliant new trends for men that I’m rather excited about. What I like about these trends are that each type of look can be found throughout every designer’s collection which, will make it easy for regular people like myself to recreate these runway look in my local mall or online shopping.
Structured Sweatshirts: Being a guy I’m a huge supporter and connoisseur of the sweatshirt; it’s reliable, effortless and quick. Thanks to the genius craftsmanship of designers like, Tim Coppens, Neil Barrett and Frank Morello there’s a new take on the sportswear classic. With a stronger and voluminous silhouette this look has been remixed with the help of graphic/prints (Morello & Kenzo,) geometric cuts and color blocking (Barrett & MSGM) and clever adornments such as zippers, fur and leather (Philip Lim, Coppens and Paul Smith.) If you’re a no nonsense dresser or someone who doesn’t get layering but still desire a standout look, throwing this style of sweatshirt on with a slim streamline pant will definitely give you that new look while stay true to your personal style.
This leads me to the next trend… The “V” silhouette. Being the pro-fitness guy I am like most men the ideal physical structure is the “V” shape of broad shoulders, big chest and small waist and obviously menswear designers live by the phrase “those who can’t do, teach” because this new silhouette overwhelmed the runways during the fall/winter shows. To achieve this look is to keep all the weight on top and minimal on bottom. A look normally created with the help of skinny jeans is now replaced with tapered slacks, cigarette pants & high hemmed denim. Take a look how Jonathan Saunders, Emporio Armani and Dior Homme showed how to keep it simple by doing a oversized top and tapered pant (Richard Nicoll) or simply cinching in the waist, play with layering and textiles on top and a sleeker simpler pant on bottom ( Andrea Pompilio) and very pronounced outerwear and high cuffed jeans (Dsquared2.)
Poignant Outerwear: As a kid I hated wearing a jacket. I could never find one that went with all my school clothes, my theory was who needs a jacket if I’m only going from the house to the car to the school. Paris, Milan, London and New York got the memo about adding more fashion to the function of the necessary fall/winter piece. Howbeit, futuristic, whimsical or tough designers such as, Kenzo, Burberry, Cavalli and Louis Vuttion took coats and jackets to new levels regardless the shape or cut (overwhelming, lithe, short or long) that can be incorporated into any stylish male’s wardrobe no matter your aesthetic. Even bringing parkas back i.e. (TopMan, Hardy Amies and Valentino.)
While on the topic of different aesthesis, two that were a big point of reference this season are School Boy Charm & Sleek Grunge.
Though the ‘school boy’ look was referenced in almost every collection, you can definitely tell this look is the look to go with till spring. Designers such as, Kris Van Assche, Valentino and Mark McNairy channeled this style with varsity jackets, prep school like uniforms and traditional aspects of houndstooth, naive prints and sneakers with suits. When attempting this look remember not to be too casual or too preppy.
The ‘grunge look’ has been incessant for about 3 seasons now. I get that kids that were born in the 90’s are now obsessed with dressed as if they were teens during that time period. However, Skinny-Jesus touched the hands of Robert Geller, Saint Laurent and Kenneth Cole to give the messy style a more finished wearable introspection. For that I am grateful. You don’t have to only turn to flannel and ripped denim to recreate this look. Observe what each designer did by channeling Charlie Chaplin, the eclectic streets of New York and the Rock & Rock esque of rock bands like Aerosmith. Add leather, wool, fur and toggle buttons for that extra ‘umph’ or even play with lengths and layering.
Accent Colors: are important especially during the time of year when falling into the rut of wearing black, grey and brown is extremely easy. Green is the color of the season from Wooyoungmi, AMI to Paul Smith these designers brought on the color where green was the standout. Green is a season-less color that works in every hue (with exception on day glow.) Green is the ideal complementary color of most skin tones and the color of the holiday season. I know primary colors were forecast for this season but hey, blue and yellow makes green.