Better late than never! While today is the first day of the Paris Menswear fall/winter 2014 shows take in my savored picks of Milan Menswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014. Though, Milan didn’t start off menswear week as tradition and by taking in the ingenuity and creativity of previous collection I begged the question; do the Italian designers have the youthful edge to remain the leaders of menswear fashion? Spearheaded by Gorgio Armani there has been a ‘request’ to challenge the Italian fashion capital designers to draw on more Italian heritage for their collection and urge more young designers to show during the covenant fashion week to breathe new life in the ageing aesthetic. Obviously everyone got the memo because every designer brought their A game. I had a more than difficult time choosing my favorite collections and this is the first time I preferred more established fashion houses over the up-and-coming young talent.
Andrea Pompilio is Milan’s lifeline to youth and boy are they saving the day. With Milan trying to inject more young designers into it’s scene it’s not long before Pompilio is a household name. Last season showing a chic eccentric collection in London the same spunk and styling was shown in Milan. The militant meets dandy look of this collection is youthful, sleek and beautiful. Always knowing when to use color and prints this is an extremely fun but dapper collection.
Dolce & Gabbana ornate medieval collection was magnificent. Though, some make think it’s too outlandish to wear but to anyone who appreciate craftsmanship will surely don any piece from this collection howbeit, the coats or the sweaters, I will admit some suits will need some deconstruction and paired with basics. The weaving and sewing alone is magnificent. All hail the atelier’s ability to do such wonderful embellishing.
There’s no secret Dsqaured2 is my favorite brand and Dean & Dan are my style icons which, comes at no surprise that I am again in awe of their brilliance. Always with the kitsch, funky street style and retro influences. This collection went for a 1950-60’s jail house rock theme. Great use of pops of color, brilliant bags and clever cuts to make the possible costume jailhouse fits very wearable and desirable. Dean & Dan know how to set a scene to sell a garments and this show/collection is no exception. The accessories are the stars of this season!
The legendary furrier Fendi had to remind the buyers that they ARE the fur business. This collection is impressive and sumptuous. Sylvia Fendi had the models walk on a fur runway with plush pure genius tailored fur coats paired with wool, cotton, skins and cashmere. Even the rugged jackets had a certain lithe luxury to them. Another well styled collection with great accessories such as, hats, bags and gloves. For a guy who is obsessed with outerwear…this is heaven! Sorry I’m not sorry PETA.
Moving away from the usual sexy excessive of Gucci, Frida Giannini showed a pared down English-esque runway show. This collection is more streamlined minimalistic with pastel colors that makes you focus on the textiles and tailoring. Once more amazing bags and even more amazing coats!
As a self-proclaimed “bougiehippie” this is my ideal style of everyday dress. Missoni just does cozy care-free clothing exquisitely. The knitting is impeccable, the hues are serene and the brands staple prints are intact. Another trend to look for is this blanket/ponchos next fall/winter (did you see Burberry’s show) as outerwear. I would even go as far to say this collection has a SoCal surfer vibe to it.
The king of the sweatshirt Neil Barrett gave hard lines, ombré coloring and utilitarian dropped-waist belted coats. Not steering away from his previous two collections of this collection added lighting to the dim hued garments. By playing with ombré and the lightning bolts Barrett managed to refine the casualness of his garments while adding more coolness.
Finally, a collection that only requires one person per ensemble. While everyone else is doing oversize Salvatore Ferragamo focused on cleaning up the male silhouette. This is pure opulence, I fell in love with how clean, slick and fashionable this collection is. Take in the lines and color-blocking that are beyond well executed. The coats and jacket are the best parts of this show. Structured with a slight buoyancy to jazz it up, unadulterated Italiano.