Skinny Fashion Connoisseur: Milan Fashion Week.

25 Jun

Yesterday was the last day of Milan Menswear Fashion Week spring/summer 2015 and I’ve literally lost about 4 pounds (I weighed myself) sitting at my desk going through shows narrowing doing my favorite shows to share with my skinny male fashion connoisseurs. The Italians are known for their tailoring and the classic slim aesthetics, so it was surprising and refreshing to see this new easy going silhouettes come down the runway. Eash designers had a great mix of classic sportswear with suiting tailoring. However what was really loud on the runway was the jolt of juvenescence to the legendary fashion houses. Seems as though each brands are aiming for new clientele. Though some collection seem to have a hard time blending the two, there are many that got it right. Just peep these brilliant designers who wowed me with great use of fabric, hues and cuts. Take note; next year will be all about the textile.

andrea-pompilio-ss15
Andrea Pompilio at this point have become known for his quriky but refined designs. This collection is no different but better than the last collection. I’m noticing a trend on the Milan runways with this loose boxy streamline silhouette. This collection is fresh enough for young stylish men, sporty enough for mid age fashion crooners and well constructed for guys older that look for craftsmanship first. The bands on the suits are new and rather cute. I like that this collection fits simple but look layered in an visually intriguing way that isn’t too ridiculous.

canali-ss15
Also designing for Canali, Andrea Pompilio use this collection to show a noiseless feel that still will be noticed during the high color volumes of spring/summer. With the use of primary colors to help speaks for the subtlety in the nude. This collection is all about the versatility. More sportier than previous collection the polka dot high cuffed slacks pair well with the sneakers and the mix of chunky knits, silks and horizontal stripes really give this collection a 1960’s Italian riviera sensibility. The structured short sleeve sweaters are superb and are a great partner with the loafers. The fabric choices are displayed just gorgeously with the minimalist sewing.

dirk-bikkembergs-ss15
I don’t know how many times I profess that dry-fit is my fav looks of the summer. I stay in the gym a spring/summer long so might as well look good dripping with sweat. Dirk Bikkembergs understand the active guy that still love luxury. This season’s concept was a triathlon, from swimming, cycling to running this ultra sexy runway show got you covered. There are even some great weekend looks. This is a true definition of a sleek collection. If you need motivation to head to the gym, here it is. The designs here brings fitness, style and sex together effortlessly.

dolce-ss15
A beautifully crafted suit is a beautifully crafted suit no matter if its in traditional black or done in gleaming red with spanish inspired influences. Dolce & Gabbana moved away from their traditional Italian religious concepts of pervious collection to introduces the seemingly same prints but from spanish heritage. This surely won’t run off fans but give them something different. I love the ostentatious aroa of this collection and how sharp & beautiful it is. Another point to notice is how the Sicilian duo’s oversized structured cuts are now been done by many other designers for example the shirts. Though the fabrics are fabulous and exquisite this is another collection that is all about making the cut relaxed while letting the textile do all the work. Enjoyed this show mainly because I want a torero inspired jacket.

emporio-armani-ss15
Emporio Armani is how you make black, white and gray work for spring/summer. Just mix it up, literally. This collection had stripe, color-blocking and geometric shaped to keep the mundane colors from being too heavy and hot. Yet another collection the relied on the fabric to tell a story. You can tell this is directed to a younger crowd (a la Alexander Wang) with the fit but keeping the brands base with the lux materials and lustrous flow. The diagonal grid prints are great enhancements for the informal line as well as the moto jackets.

ermenegildo-zegna-ss15
Ermenegildo Zenga didn’t infused color into the muted collection until the end. I totally got a Gucci zeal from the color pairing and retro appeal. Giving buyers room to breathe with the casual tailoring is another example of sporty elegance. I like the double ended shirts and another trend to pep out- matching anorak tide around the waist. A very young Italiano collection.

fendi-ss15
Now Fendi‘s collaboration with Beats By Dre make snese. The Fendi show is obviously going in a very young relative direction. Denim was key with this collection, obviously denim is something that all guys own and like so it’s understandable for a luxe brand like Fendi and designer Silvia Fendi to take the commercial easy going textile to new heights while giving men class but comfortability. Fashion is about moving forward and I like this pace. I’m lusting over the bag and shoes! Young men are so going to eat this up. This may bring back designer denim…

iceberg-ss15
Iceberg showed a no fuss abstract collection. There are easy buoyants textures, free tailoring and eye catching graphics all edited down to exhibit the refine yet stylish Italian man. With all the clothes as easy going in fit and lithe in fabric choice I just may dress up next season. This may be a moody collection from business casual looks to vagabon like garb it goes to show you luxurious style isn’t about a slim cut expensive suit.

moncler-gamme-bleu-ss15
This time collaborating with Thom Browne, Moncler Gamme Blue have took the this collection from fencing, sledding (fall/winter) to boxing. This is more of an eccentric show off collection. Thom Browne brought his love of grey, plaids and checkered and avant garde contour to the brand. Some may be a bit turned off buy the extra-ness of the looks but individually there are some strong clever suiting.

neil-barrett-ss15
Neil Barrett‘s shows are always one I can’t wait to watch. I was afraid last season he was just going to be doing structured colored blocking sweatshirts forever. He proved me wrong and kept his overall clean meets street aesthetic. This is a young modern collection that isn’t screaming young and modern like most classic houses. Still using his brown/black color palette this time with the addition of blue he introduced more separated. Expertly executed spartan tailoring per usual. I adore how Barrett understands that men want cool casual clothing without the fuss and not be so literally when doing so.

ports-1961-ss15
Chic angles were the theme at Ports 1961. This is a sharp collection that isn’t giving up it’s refinement in return of its wider fits. Nothing slouchy about this collection but majorly sartorial. The outerwear is beyond hauntingly breathtaking.

salvatore-ferragamo-ss15
If its possible to take a yacht to a safari Salvatore Ferragamo latest collection is what you wear. Even though the shoes are flawless I will take a moment to comment on the clothing. Keeping the sportswear aspect of menswear and dismissing the casuale what is usually associated with sporty the textures are just amazing leaving room for the boxy cuts to be a bit serene. Observe the nature influence from the hues to the active tailoring and foliage prints.

versace-ss15
Referencing 1950’s cuba for is initial concept Versace saturated that notion with its heritage of sex. Always with the greek & western arua this collection has an impeccable amount of class, sex and debonair. The sandals are fierce and the mesh pants are just what I need to add some heat to my style next year.

frankie-morello-ss15
“Make Art Not War” was leitmotif of Frankie Morello runway show. The duo’s charming wacky street aesthetic was still prevalent but with more of a conscious. Joining the trend of huge graphics, anoraks around the waist, relaxed fit and stripes this collection used it’s hues, superb tailoring and youthful appeal to keep it’s message from getting too dark. With prints of broken glass, static-like dip dying and images from various war in the Middle East & Europe and riots in Brazil, Turkey and more there is no way not to pay attention to the message being sent. Even with the clothing being is keen, boyish and just overall diet worthy I appreciate when someone use their talents to keep people aware of another serious cause. Sometimes concepts like this can be a bit dark but the charm is still here almost making you want to be apart of whatever is going on. Btw I want those sandals!

jil-sander-ss15

Beautiful, lovely, chic, romantic and a bit toothsome are all adjectives to describe this Jil Sander presentation. It’s sportswear but it’s dressy and it’s a different voice that isn’t busy, too relaxed or outdoorsy. It has a womenswear affection about it. Using sounds and vibrations as the inspiration and on trend with the stripes and graphics I just love how breathy this collection is. The shirt shirts and voluminous tops are just devine together. A very conservative and soft view to spring/summer fashion.

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