I don’t know if it’s me or the Parisians…
I know they are known for they light eating and forever skinny clothing but this is another season of scarce stellar runway shows from Paris. After two days of shows during Paris Menswear Week fall/winter 2014 I managed to only like 9 of 23 complete shows presented thus far. I will state that I have seen a few savory pieces here and there but nothing to motivate me to drop another pants size by next September. Maybe I’m just being too greedy with all that was served at London and Milan. You tell me.
I love when American culture inspire designers overseas. This collection by Carven reeks of the 1920’s NYC gangster scene refined. I like the muted color pallet and rich textiles. Not as eccentric as his previous collections Guillaume Henry still showed the subtle charm of his interesting aesthetic. The plaid and nude injection of ‘color’ helps maintain the moodiness of the garment without making it too dark.
The duo Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti are known for their quirky urbane menswear designs for Frankie Morello. With a great mix of sportswear and suits this collection steered away from the duo’s love of color and graphics but keeping the street/schoolboy appeal. Pristine tailoring and proportions this collection also included some social media referencing with it’s hashtages. Notice the blankets??? Next season’s outwear.
Dries Van Noten‘s collection is for the guy who likes layering, standing out and being dapper at the same time. I haven’t seen a consistent use of mix media textiles & prints in a few seasons. I would have never expected a vast funky collection from this brand however, I like it. I see the Japanese influences that make me consider this collection “artsy vagabond chic.”
Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton brought a more oceanic vibe to this collection verses the western approach of last season. Personally, I think this collection is a refreshing look for the brand, it’s more laid back and less ostentatious than previous seasons. Still in Vuitton fashion it is ultra luxe with smooth coats, cozy but stylish sweaters and another collection that shows ombre and color-blocking will still be in vogue next year.
Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are in the pack with other slim fitting structured designers who paired down their traditional sleek collections for a more sportier look. The geometric patterns, loose tailored pants and custom-fit denim help showcase this new dressy causal aesthetic. Though in true Valentino fashion sizing and tailoring wasn’t sacrificed on the clean yet ridged collection.
American artist Ruby Sterling collecbrate with Raf Simmons for this boisterous collection. The chunky shoes, bleach splatters and ceramic like patchwork along with artsy applique showed a excellent blend of art and mode. The coats/jackets and bags are masterpieces alone!
Alexender Wang quite honestly does sporty street-wear the best. Kids these days like the mix of causal and moto and the oversize garments with streamline tailoring make this collection as desirable as previous collections. Looking at this presentation you see not only one style of guy in these looks but really taking in the clothing you can see some vast array of fetching pieces. The knits, leather, fur and hint of construction worker take this presentation to a inviting edgy place.
I’m beyond stoked that ninja theme is gone from Balmain! Still the military and rocker infusions are prevalent, Olivier Rousteing suckered me in with softer overture of these looks. I just can’t contain myself over these grandiose jackets. From embroidery, animal prints and military graphics to the fur, knitting and leather I wonder why don’t Balmain just makes jackets.
My first time seeing a John Lawrence Sullivan show I am impressed. Another ode to the sixties this collection was brought to the future with “not-so-skinny” suits and flamboyant metallic fabrics.