Feeling the drain of my new workout and diet change I haven’t even open one folder of Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 shows. Another reason being that I wasn’t hugely impressed by the other menswear collections from London, Paris and Milan. So I know us Americans with our barriers and censors wasn’t going to deliver anything shocking. However, the Americans came with the flue this season to keep you on the right weight path for next summer. Not a lot of menswear shows but enough to jump start your shopping and eating budget for next season. As I wait for the final shows to come in here are my most appetizing men’s shows of the last four days of #NYFW.
Robert Geller may have been called out on his one note casting being that he referenced a time period (the 60’s) that was the beginning of the civil rights moment but his collection was nothing close to one note. Sticking with his eccentric but modern and tailored aesthetic of loose refined knits, this collection is one of my favorites of New York Fashion Week. The most savored part of this collection is his “white noise” prints that was shown in cropped pants, well tailored bomber-like short-sleeved shirts and blazers. The hats are really the only “on-the-nose” 60’s references apart from the fit of the pants and boxy tops. A very contemporary collection that is cool but refined by it’s execution.
Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver has the best sense of humor in fashion. I was delighted when I seen this collection, it’s Boca Raton meets today’s 23 year old sartorialist. Last spring was all about being androgynous but this collection is all about ageism. This is how I want to dress when it’s time for me to retire with great fitting trousers, soft color palette and simple yet stylish outerwear. The eye and daring risks that these men take are always a well received sight to see. Can’t wait to see what they do next season!
Lacoste is known for it’s sporty style/look but this collection was less preppy tennis and more urbane athletic. Sportswear is going to be big next year but this trend of cleaning up athletic-wear with a bit of street style and superb tailoring is right up my alley. I like the paired down look in the spring/summer months but I don’t want to lose the filtered sleek finish of my garments. Lacoste understands that and have effectively made a collection that caters to today’s urban youth and dressy elders.
Richard Chai Love is the poetry of menswear. Always showing lithe, sexy and summer explicit attire. Going for a more punk-y feel to give the 90’s enthusiasts something to enjoy I enjoy that this collection is complex in color, shape and layering but still wearable and fashionable. The shorts are the star of this show! From short shorts paired with long coats to high waist-ed boxy short paired with knee-high socks is sure another trend to look for next year.
Custo Barcelona have you covered from the beach to the club. Per usual with it’s vibrant color scheme and flamboyant textile choices I get excited and scared at the same time looking at this collection because I know there will be no off days at the gym if I want to don any look like these. Sexy, fun and exotic are the prefect words to describe this collection and look 10 is the epitome of vacation attire.
Hood By Air has every fashion website, magazine and blogger going crazy over it’s Lucite dog collars that seemingly influenced by Queen Elizabeth. But I didn’t quite get that reference I believe that Hood by Air is this century’s urban courtier of American fashion. Still loud 90’s street style roaring through the collection infused by ultra sexy silhouettes, I can’t ignore the detailed quirky intricate craftsmanship of the collection. Even if this has nothing you can really wear in public it doesn’t take away from how great and relevant this collection is finished. This collection is beyond making petty clothing it’s about inspiring a new era of dress.
N. Hoolywood is another sporty and metropolitan collection of nicely crafted menswear. Brilliant use of prints and shapes, these parings are something that I savor being that designer Daisuke Obana manage to take all the fuss of the prints and voluminous shapes then tone it down to a easy flowing collection. Nothing messy or over the top just genuine modern clothing for today’s young male. Not to mention these are some good pieces that could carry you into fall.
Perry Ellis had me with it’s color pallet! The calm coloring are genius to keep buyers and shoppers focused on the construction of the garments. Sticking with what mall shoppers are accustom to from the brand you can see the extra details (fanny pack, standout prints/geocentrically shapes and strong tailoring) put into this collection to add personality and gradually introduce people into a new aesthetic coming from the brand since the appointment of new menswear director Michael Maccari. The jolt of youth is very present in this collection a trend I’m noticing from many legendary fashion houses as they reach for a new younger audience.
Siki Im has been an eye catcher for about three seasons now for me. If a designer that is obviously not your personal style choice can create a collection that you love and open your taste to something new is a phenomenal designer. Even though it’s not like Siki Im is doing something innovate I can’t help but appreciate the risks displayed season after season. An unquestionable outerwear driven collection the Japanese references of kimono, Sumo wresting and austere tailoring are simply awesome. The extreme layering, asymmetrical sheathes and enveloping silhouette are phenomenal to me. How can something so overwhelming come off so relaxed and dope? With an air of bad-ass warrior ninja meets American kick-ass this is a ethereal collection.
Tim Coppens just gets it. Though I was growing tired of the same structured bombers, sweaters and shirts in geometric shapes and jumbo prints this first ever finalist of the LVMH Young Fashion Designers Prize has keep me wanting more for another season. Sticking with what he does best; athletic tailoring and mix media prints, showcased an underwear theme collection. My favorite being his interpretation of camouflage was a great utilitarian sporty show. The slow ease of color as the show progressed is great and produced some of my personal desired looks of the shows.